Tom Ford vs Marc Jacobs

Résumé du document

Jacobs launched his name sake line in 1986 and then in 2001 debuted another critically acclaimed collection, Marc by Marc Jacobs, a collection of comparatively affordable edgy and retro mass-market pieces. His accompanying accessory lines—bags loaded with pockets or buckles, round-toed boots, pointed flats, metallic evening shoes— garner attention and in-store waiting lists every season. The people who wear it are people like the downtown crowd with eclectic or edgy tastes, including Winona Ryder, Uma Thurman, the Olsen twins, Drew Barrymore, Sophia Coppola, Scarlett Johansson, and Maggie Gyllenhall. The Look: bright colors, oversize prints, layered looks, empire lines, rugby stripes, oversize bows and buttons, and pretty, prom-like party dresses. Marc Jacobs: American fashion designer; he attended the High School of Art and Design and graduated in 1981. From there, Jacobs entered the Parsons School of Design. At Parsons, Jacobs won the Perry Ellis Gold Thimble Award in 1984, and in the same year was also awarded the Chester Weinberg Gold Thimble Award and the Design Student of the Year Award.

Extraits

[...] By 2003 the MJ mini Fashion empire included 4 retail boutiques in the US, a complete men's wear and women's wear line ( with Marc the popular diffusion label), shoes, handbags and 2 fragrances. The various steps of Marc Jacobs brand development 1986 first collection for the Marc Jacobs line 1989 the brand is set on a standby 1994 relaunch of the brand thanks to Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista to show it 1998 LVMH acquires one third of the Marc Jacobs line retail boutiques in the US, a complete mens' wear and women's wear line including the Marc by Marc Jacobs line ( popular label dissusion), shoes , bags, fragrances launch of the eyewear Marc Jacobs deal with Safilo, launch of the watch collections ( both for the Marc Jacobs brand and the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand) How his life has influence his work During his studies at Parsons MJ frequented the notorious Area club in NY and continues to use the spirit of that era as inspiration of his collections : "it's about a constant re-celebration of what turns us on : youth, vitality, freedom not in this pining for the past way, but again just constantly celebrating that its energy is still relevant." Marc Jacobs he designed the infamous but timely grunge collection that was triumphed by those in fashion circles (Kal Ruttenstein, Anna Wintour . [...]

[...] Partnership with LVMH increase the visibility of the 2 Marc Jacobs lines. The first moves without LVMH did not decide to be influencial, but what I mean by the customer is that for whatever reason there was something that I was doing and it started to sell, they started to buy it, people started to see it, the magazines were covering it, and so on . And so I guess it is the appearance of things in everyday life that mean you've been influencial." Marc Jacobs 1986 - 1989 his brand Marc Jacobs line for women 1994 relaunch of the collection for women The first moves with LVMH Designer for Louis Vuitton Openings of Marc Jacobs new stores Development of his brands with new product categories The first moves with LVMH Designer for Louis Vuitton : 1997 first collection for Louis Vuitton Women's wear. [...]

[...] Ford worked with all creative teams at YSL to define the overall image and positioning of the YSL brand including all product categories and communication activities. He mainly focused on accessories, as there was no great tradition to compete with The YSL period The new departure Ford and Domenico De Sole (CEO) were both credited with the success story of Gucci. In April 2004, they both parted company with the Gucci Group having failed to agree with new owner PPR over creative direction of the group This had been strongly relayed by the medias: Time asked, "Is this the end of fashion?" W called the news a "devastating shake-up” etc One year after his final catwalk bow, he announced his return to the luxury business with a partnership with another venerable luxury brand: Estée Lauder Licensees: Estée Lauder A first agreement for Youth Dew Amber Nude collection in fall 2005 13-item line of luxury-priced cosmetics and fragrance Tom Ford made a conference at Saks Fifth Avenue to launch it: $30,000 sold during the event Distribution: 100 doors in November in December until reaching 1,000 in 2006 Licensees: Estée Lauder Licensees: Estée Lauder After the success of the first collection, a reinterpretation of classic's Estée Lauder Azurée 25-pieces in the spring collection priced between $18 and $50 inspired by the Côte d'Azur 3 color families: Azurée peach and coral, Cap Bronzée warm tones of sand, St-Tropée mauve Distribution: 2,100 specialty and department stores $18 million retail sales estimated (half in the US) and million ad campaign worldwide Licensees: Marcolin First collection of sunglasses with 23 styles interpreting classic shapes like the curvy aviator styles Priority on high quality and prices between and A couple of porn stars chosen for the advertising campaign Licensees: Marcolin Distribution starts in November on 60 US department stores and 700 to 800 eyewear shops in Europe Next year forecasts: 1,000 stores in the US 3,000 in Europe in Asia and 600 in other parts of the world Next March: launching of an ophthalmic collection at Vision Expo in NY Licensees: Marcolin Men's collection Licensing deal signed with Ermenegildo Zegna for the production and distribution of men's wear, accessories and footwear Dominico De Sole sits on Zegna's board and Ford is familiar with Zegna's production capability Zegna: vast network of factories in Italy and Switzerland Men's collection Very luxury men's collection and more attention to the details than at Gucci Ready-to-wear, made-to-measure items, accessories and footwear; confidential and customized collection The customer would choose models, fabrics and color of its costumes, shirts, shoes, leather goods and accessories. [...]

[...] His designs continue to be admired on the catwalk and continually mimicked on the high streets The moves with LVMH latest Openings : -The Royal way of Marc Jacobs : Paris, at Palais Royal square foot unit ( before the brand was available only in a handful of parisian stores including Colette, Le Bon Marché and Printemps). The boutique is a collaboration between NY architect Stephan Jaklisch and French designer Christian Liaigre. The women's department occupies the largest room, children's wear and pet items segue into men's accessories and a compact room for men's wear. This store is the most complete assortment in Paris to date, exclusive T-Shirts and underwear printed with the Paris adress. The moves with LVMH Stores : in 7 countries : China, USA, UAE, Taiwan, Malaysia, Japan, France. [...]

[...] Marc Jacobs's recipe for success : Good Partnerships . A good team : Robert Duffy and Marc Jacobs seem complementary since the beginning of their work together. A good support : LVMH and Bernard Arnault. A huge financial support and leverage : a complete men's wear line for example, the increasing RDW market for men : "they are coming in here with their girlfriends and buying just as much" Robert Duffy. Marc Jacobs's recipe for success : Image : Popular among people of the show business. [...]